What is a jacquard? How to distinguish between jacquard fabric and small jacquard fabric
It is an embossed pattern in which the textile is interlaced by warp and weft.
As early as the ancient Silk Road, Chinese silk is famous for its jacquard weaving.
The jacquard craftsmanship originated from the original waist machine picking flowers. Jacquard patterns have been found in the fabrics unearthed from the Shang Dynasty. The jacquard weave patterns in this period are mostly straight-shaped rhombic patterns, back patterns, "cup patterns" and The variant geometry of the straight lines of these patterns.
In the Qin and Han Dynasties, the silk jacquard fabric pattern on the basis of the pre-Qin geometric pattern increased the small flower back pattern of birds, beasts, clouds and a small number of plants. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the lotus, the grass, the sketching flower and other shapes were full, and the rounded large plant patterns appeared on the silk jacquard fabric. The plant patterns showed rich and rich style features. During the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, the silk jacquard fabric pattern It is naturally smooth, delicate and fine.
△ Jacquard machine, "Tiangong Kaiwu" (Ming) illustration
Ming Song Yingxing "Tiangong Kaiwu·Jingniao": "Weaving flowers will use Jia, Lake exit, and the water will be dried, and then let the martial arts, not worry about disconnection. His province is barely jacquard, scribble only. ”
In modern times, with the development of modern weaving technology, large-scale electronic jacquard machines have emerged. The jacquard weaving technology has developed rapidly, and the patterns have also presented a variety of expressions. The artistic expression of jacquard weaving has also been unprecedented. Promote and develop.
Jacquard and small jacquard
The jacquard weaves a large pattern of woven fabrics, and the number of warp yarns that can be fully organized by jacquard can be as many as several thousand. Most of the jacquard is based on one tissue, and the other pattern shows patterns, such as plain flowers and satin flowers. It is also sometimes possible to use warp and weft yarns of different colors to give the fabric a large colored pattern. Can also be used with different fiber types, yarn counts and different warp and weft density to make a variety of styles of jacquard fabrics. Jacquard tissue is also widely used, and is often used in textiles such as bedding, curtains, and blankets.
△ large jacquard fabric
The jacquard weaving machine controls the up and down movement of the warp yarn through the needle. Generally, the practical needle of the 1400th jacquard machine is 1480 needles, which means that the movement law of 1480 kinds of warp yarns can be controlled, which greatly increases the number of Flower shaped area.
Small jacquard, a tissue that uses two or more types of tissue changes on the surface of the fabric to form a pattern, called a small jacquard. Small jacquard is generally organized in plain weave. The jacquard fabric is more delicate and delicate than the pattern of the jacquard fabric, and is also often used for high-grade bedding and curtain products.
△ small jacquard fabric
The small jacquard loom uses multiple arms to control the lifting of the heald frame. The movement of the heald frame is determined by the lifting of the heald frame by the blade in the multi-arm. The general multi-arm can only control 16 heald frames, that is, only The laws of movement of 16 kinds of warp threads can be controlled. The woven pattern is relatively small. If the pattern to be woven is only realized by enlarging the circulation of the heald and the heald, the multi-arm of the imported jacquard loom can control up to 24 heald frames. But this is rare, usually 16 and 20 pieces.
to sum up
The size of the jacquard pattern cycle is mainly the difference of the loom. The small jacquard fabric can be produced by the multi-arm loom, and the jacquard must be produced on the jacquard loom.
The jacquard fabric is a tissue that can reach hundreds of warp yarns and needs to be woven with Jacquard machine. The small jacquard is a cotton fabric of small flower-woven tissue woven by a multi-arm loom, or a small pattern fabric, a multi-arm jacquard fabric.
Type of opening mechanism:
Electronic multi-arm: Weaving small jacquard fabric, generally received by the electromagnetic iron receiving industrial computer command to control the lifting of the brown frame.
Electronic jacquard faucet: weaving large jacquard fabric, the electronic needle receiving industrial computer command to control the lifting of each wire. Generally, the heald frame of the multi-arm loom is 16 to 20 pieces, and the most common jacquard faucet is 2640 needles.
Wear a fishing head:
Multi-armed healds, the principle of wearing the fabric in the fabric structure: the warp yarns with the same weaving and weaving are generally inserted into the same sheet heald, and can also be inserted into different healds, and the warp yarns of different interlacing laws must be worn in different healds. In the page. At least one wearing cycle is drawn through the drawing.
Electronic jacquard fishing heads are headed from left to right. The above is the basic situation in the production process of large and small jacquard to help understand.
Jacquard fabric identification method:
1. Judging the warp and weft direction of the fabric;
Second, find a complete latitudinal cycle;
3. Find out how many warp yarns have different movements in a complete cycle;
Fourth, under normal circumstances, the number of different warp yarns under 20 is a small jacquard, and more than 20 are large jacquards are only preliminary judgments.
In the actual process, it is necessary to analyze the equipment configuration of the company. For example, if a company's multi-arm woven fabric is equipped with up to 16 heald frames, the fabrics that weave different warp yarns must be weaved with jacquard weaving. It is necessary to take into account the heald density of each heald, because each piece of heald has a density that is too large to cause problems such as poor living. For example, the preliminary judgement uses 20 different movement warp yarns. The company is equipped with 20 multi-arm looms, but the fabric is too dense and the density of each heald is too large. At this time, it should be considered to be placed on the jacquard weaving weaving. . In actual work, whether it is design or sales, it can be analyzed and judged according to its actual situation.
The difference between jacquard and other floral fabrics
Jacquard refers to the textile in which the yarn is interwoven into different patterns according to different movement rules during the production process. It is the interlacing of yarns, the change of yarn color and the matching of different yarn movement rules to produce different color blocks. The pattern of the appearing pattern is mixed, three-dimensional, and textured.
A printed fabric is a fabric that is patterned with a pigment or dye and is planar.
Embroidered fabric is an artistic pattern fabric. Its stitching is varied, there is no directionality, color is free to use, and the jacquard fabric is colored by warp and weft yarns. The yarns are arranged regularly, and different color blocks are produced by different tissues. The number of colors is limited.
The burnt-out fabric is a textile in which the cotton fiber in the polyester-cotton core-spun yarn or the polyester-cotton blend fabric is rotted with acid syrup to reveal a transparent pattern, and it can also be smashed with acid syrup on the fabric woven from silk and rayon. Go to rayon to give a thin, translucent pattern.
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