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The Production Principle Of Jacquard Knitted Fabric
- Apr 02, 2018 -

The production principle of jacquard knitted fabric


提花针织物大提花的提花原理,大提花织物与小提花织物生产上不同处有两点,一是大提花不用棕框,而用龙头+通丝+目板+棕丝的比较复杂的组合;二是大提花的纹板帘一般很长,在一个提花回位中有N根纬纱就得配N块纹板,要有专门的支架用来挂纹板帘,穿联纹板有讲究,哪块纹板正反面搞错或左右两头调了位,都会织错花形,寻找排错的纹板也很麻烦,挂纹板帘的支架一般和提花龙头一起安排在织机的上方。小提花纹板上一般最多24个纹孔,分别用来控制棕框升降和选纬,一块大提花纹板会有几千个纹孔,它们与提花机龙头的纹针数相对应,每个孔位对准一根纹针,以该孔位是否打孔来控制是否提棕,一个纹孔控制数根经纱的运动,这些经纱分别是通幅布面中每朵花中的一根或几根,原则就是运动轨迹相同的经纱可以通过各自的通丝吊在一个龙钩上,如果根数过多,超过龙钩的承重能力,可以考虑多几只钩分担,很多情况下,一只钩上所吊的通丝数是整幅布中的花数。它们的信息传输过程是纹板---纹针---龙钩---通丝---综丝---经纱。

Jacquard knit jacquard jacquard's Jacquard principle. There are two points in the production of jacquard fabric and jacquard fabric. One is the complex combination of big jacquard without brown frame, and a complex combination of faucet + wire + eye plate + brown silk; two is the long jacquard plate curtain, and a N weft in a jacquard back position must be fitted with a N block plate, and a special bracket is used to hang a plate curtain and wear a line. The board is exquisite, which plate is wrong or right and right side, or both sides of the position, can weave the wrong flower shape, find the wrong pattern plate is also very troublesome, the scaffold with the board curtain is usually arranged with the jacquard faucet above the loom. There are generally 24 stripes on the small striped board, which are used to control the palm frame lifting and the selection of the weft, and a large jacquard plate has several thousand striated holes. They correspond to the number of stitches in the jacquard's faucet. Each hole is aligned with a stitch to control whether the palm is raised or not, and a grain hole controls the movement of several warps. These warps are each flower in the width of the cloth. One or a few of them, the principle is that the warp with the same track can be hung on a dragon hook through its own wire. If the number of roots is too many, more than the bearing capacity of the Dragon hook can be taken into account, in many cases, the number of threads in a hook is the number of flowers in the whole cloth. The process of information transmission are plate - lines - - - long needle hook wire harness - warp.


先进的电脑提花龙头大提花机,可以省去制作纹板和安排一堆纹板运转的麻烦。同时从设计到开车的时间大大缩短,还便于修改,效率有很大提高,但设备投入要高很多,往往是普通机的十倍或更多。

The advanced computerized jacquard loom jacquard machine can save the trouble of making patterns and arranging a lot of patterns. At the same time, the time from design to driving is greatly shortened, it is easy to modify, and the efficiency has been greatly improved, but the input of the equipment is much higher, which is often ten times or more of the ordinary machine.


大提花织物和一般织物一样,只能做有限度的纱支和密度,而且不是所有花式都能提,因为是大提花,经纱有很多种不同的织造结构,可能会有不同的织造松紧度,以至于织造过程中产生经纱张力不均现象,如果张力不均轻微,可以生产,布面有一些不平复的现象,或容易有星跳。如果严重,无法织造,或织造效率很低,还伴有很多的疵病。这要求设计提花工艺时充分考虑生产可行度,主要看它的花部和地部各是什么组织、提花部分块面的大小、花在布面上分布是否均匀。工厂的工艺人员会根据这些因素估计一个品种的生产难度,供业务部门报价和接单时参考,遇到生产难度太大的品种,工厂多会放弃。比较常见的提花方法是花与地分别做正反组织,或相近组织,如直贡地横贡花,3/1地1/3花,3/1地2/2花,2/1地1/2花,或花、地组织相调换。遇到花部与地部组织结构松紧不一时,如平纹地的提花布,最好是线条形的花纹,同时均匀分布在布面上,尽力让每根经纱经历的交织点数相同或相近。如果不能做到这些,考虑双经轴或三经轴,将张力相近的经纱安排在同一经轴上,分别牵不同长度的经纱。

The jacquard fabric, like the general fabric, can only do a limited amount of gauze and density, and not all the styles can be raised, because it is the big jacquard, the warp has many different weaving structures, and it may have different loom tightness so that the warp tension is uneven during the weaving process. If the tension is not mild, it can be produced and there are some unequal phenomena in the cloth face. Or easy to have a star jump. If not serious, or weaving, the weaving efficiency is very low, with a lot of defects. This requires the design of jacquard technology to take full consideration of the production feasibility, mainly depending on what tissue in the flower and ground parts, the size of the part of the jacquard, and the distribution of the flowers on the cloth surface. The factory technicians will estimate the difficulty of the production of a variety according to these factors, for the business department to offer the quotation and to refer to the order, meet the variety of production difficulty too much, the factory will give up more. The more common jacquard methods are to do the positive and negative organizations, or close organizations, such as the tribute flowers, the 1/3 flower of 3/1, the 2/2 flower of 3/1, the 1/2 flower of 2/1, or the change of the flower and ground tissues. The organization structure of the flower Department and the ground is not a moment, such as the jacquard cloth, which is the best line pattern. At the same time, it is evenly distributed on the cloth surface, trying to make the interlaced points of each warp same or similar. If we cannot do this, consider double warps or three warps, arrange the warp with similar tension on the same warp shaft, and pull the warp with different lengths separately.

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